Friday, February 26, 2010

The First Boom

You know when you are waiting for something, and you just want to get it over with.  The line for the roller coaster makes your stomach drop almost as much as the ride... if its your first time (or so you think). 

I knew it would and the anticipation was killing me, and every bit of me didn't want it to come, but at the same time, I just wanted to get that first time over with ... you know? 

This morning, it happened.  The first bomb went off in relatively close proximity to our new house.  At 6:30am, the house was rocked with an explosive boom, followed by that noise I always hear small boys make when holding their toy guns (I'm impressed how accurate they are). 

However, like somethings you are unsure of, like small earthquake tremors or when you think you hear someone in the house ... this was not one of them, this was a boom that shook the city, followed by two smaller booms and automatic firing. 

I say boom, to lighten it up a bit, as people live with this everyday.  After the dust had settled, because we were in the new house (foodless), we were approved to go to another house to go have a nice brunch.  As we drove, we could see normalcy throughout the city.   Less than a mile from the site there were children playing soccer in the street and people going about their business as if nothing had happened. 

Scary? Yes.  However, now I know how things work.  I know that I will be ok (special thanks to my brother for being there on skype as I waited for security) and that, hey, I actually won't freak out, as I thought I might .   And, people deal with this everyday, they have no choice and days go on.

So there you have it, the first boom and all is well.

Monday, February 22, 2010

Green means go, folks!

Have you ever stopped to think what the best feeling in the world is?  Well, it is easier to recognize it once its gone.  Aside from love and babies and all that mushy stuff - an honestly, down to earth good feeling.   Well, what I have come to miss is walking down the street.  A simple walk down the street, saying a simple hello to your neighbors and smelling the flowers.  What would you do if someone locked up your front door and said you can't come out.  You had to go straight from your front door, into a car and hide yourself from the world.  You are a mere stranger to the world outside, and they to you.  How much would you really understand about your community without being able to partake?  Here, we are not able to walk outside, talk outside, sometimes I feel like my view outside is even shaded and a bit jaded. 

For a moment today that all changed.  A simple walk down the street can change everything.  

Security here goes in phases and we are on a color scheme (to simplify it for us non-intelligence folks) and generally we are ranked a little higher, meaning we need to be a little more cautious.  We need to have armed escorts, extra security guards, ride in armored vehicles, etc.  However, for whatever reason today the security is a little more lax (green) and I was able to walk down the street.  Granted it wasn't more than 2 blocks (and an armed escort did follow me), but it was as far out of my bubble as I had been since stepping onto Afghan soil.

I am a strong believer in understanding the area in which one is living and working, but the security here is not conducive to allowing one to go out freely into the community.  Though there are challenges, today I took a step.

Friday, February 19, 2010

The good, the bad and the ugly

Remember when I was in Pakistan and the doorman walked in on me, half naked? Or when I was stuck in the London airport and woke up on a terminal bench canoodling with a homeless woman? Or just last week when slipped getting into the big tonka trucks over here, splashing into a nasty puddle of mud?

Well, those are the stories people always comment on the most. Thus, I thought I would share the best pick up lines.  These are good, friends. So good, I don't think I can keep them to myself. You'll have to stick with it, as I will update it regularly (but I won't be going out a lot). But, I do promise they will be good, as the ratio of men to women in bars here is about 10 to 1.

So far...

Drunken Sir #1: "You are the most beautiful thing I have ever seen, are you from around here?"
Me: "Ummm, sir, we are in Kabul. No, I am not from around here."
Drunken Sir #2: hands Drunken Sir #1 a drink (so he now has 2 drinks in his hand, spilling drink number 1
Drunker Sir #1: "But you look like the local flavor"
Me: Kindly bow out of conversation

Nice French Diplomat Man: "So, wvhere are you from?" (spelling is his french accent, not drunked slur)
Me: "The States"
Nice French Diplomat Man: "Wvhere in the US?"
Me: Wisconsin
Nice French Diplomat Man: "They ave sheeeseheads"
Nice French Diplomat Man: "nd  tat '70s Show"
Nice French Diplomat Man: "nd a futball team, yah?"
Me: "You could say that about most any State"
Nice French Diplomat Man: "the paacvers!" (after he got another drink)
... I later figured out he was googling Wisconsin on his iPhone (points for creativeness? or a little creepy?)

Maybe Normal Sir? #1: "You are from the US, yah?"
Me: "I am"
Maybe Normal Sir? #1: "I can't detect your accent, what State are you from?"
Me: "Wisconsin"
Maybe Normal Sir? #1: (giggles a bit and turns his head)
Me: "Umm, why is that funny? What is so funny about Wisconsin?"
Maybe Normal Sir? #1: "They say all good girls come from Wisconsin"
Me: "Oh, really, is that so. Well, where are you from?"
Maybe Normal Sir? #1: "Nebraska"

Nice French Diplomat Man (another night): creepishly approaches from behind
Nice French Diplomat Man: "vvhhy, hesslo there"
Me: "Hey, how are you?"
Nice French Diplomat Man:"I'm puerrefect, nd du?"
Me: "I'm well, thanks! I am going to go dance with my friends, I'll see you later"
Nice French Diplomat Man:"I'll be tsvinkig about you svile I slevp tonight"
Me: peeaceed out of that convo pretty quickly

Strategic Aid

"Our pledge on aid spending is based on a sober but optimistic assessment of the potential for carefully targeted aid to make a real difference to the lives of millions of people in the years ahead." - Andrew Mitchell, UK Shadow Secretary of State for International Development 

Aid doesn't just save lives: it's good for us too

Thursday, February 18, 2010

As US Seizes Marjah, UN Rejects “Militarization” of Aid

Democracy Now reports on the statement from the UN on the Military strategy in Marjah.

As US Seizes Marjah, UN Rejects “Militarization” of Aid

Afghanistan, a top United Nations official is criticizing the US-led NATO force for “the militarization of humanitarian aid.” Speaking in Kabul, the deputy special representative of the secretary general, Robert Watkins, said UN agencies in Afghanistan won’t take part in the US-led reconstruction strategy for the town of Marjah, where NATO has launched a major offensive. The UN has opposed plans for the US military to oversee aid distribution in Afghan towns. Watkins said, “We are not part of that process, we do not want to be part of it. We will not be part of that military strategy.” The US military says it’s now in control of Marjah and plans to install a new local government within weeks.

Wednesday, February 17, 2010

Sonia and Jamila

So, here's the thing... Life is good, yes. But, I am not going to lie, I am in Afghanistan.

The teeter-totter goes up and down as if a ton bricks is on one side and the other is as light as a feather. The ton of bricks being the gated walls, guns everywhere, random spotting of taliban, news of another attack, choppers so close to the office you think they might be coming in for a visit, or even just a suspicious person around the corner. The other side is pleasant as can be, wonderful colleagues, comfortable living and passionate work. But you know when you were a kid and that teeter totter went back and forth too fast? Well, it made your stomach drop, like a the free fall on a roller coaster.

For a while, I wanted to sugar coat everything for everyone to let you know that I am safe (I am!), but that isn't going to help. The reality is, life is going to be a teeter totter over here, but like everything else in life, there is beauty in it.

Speaking of beauty in everything. Just the other night a friend and I went out for dinner and met a women who was doing an NBC special on Women's organizations. I am not sure when it will air, but kudos to her for picking up a piece of news other than something going boom. I can't highlight her piece, because it hasn't run, but my friend Missy works for the Global Fund for Women and they are doing some great work here and elsewhere in the world.

You can't help but want to ignore the 'drop' in the pit of your stomach when you hear the story about Jamila from GFW (above) or MP Barakzai (project from DAI) who are working to make change here in Afghanistan. They have dealt with much worse conditions and will continue to ensure them for long after we are gone, yet they have found a way to turn that 'drop' into hope. Hope for a better future for their children, their neighbors and their country.

My life used to be centered around balance. Balance is the key. Balance is important, yes, but maybe it is about stepping back and realizing the bigger picture of it all. For had I not put myself in the shoes of Jamila or Sonia (MP Barakzai), I would be a lot grumpier about a cold shower and a lot more scared when the neighbor is on his poach peering over with his AK47.

Friday, February 12, 2010

Sharing good media coverage

30 Days Through Afghanistan: No Armor and Afghans Kabul

Lessons Learned

So, education is the key to all things good, is what I have always believed. Not only that, but learning something for the first time usually teaches you pretty quickly to never do it again, and often provides a good bit of entertainment for others. Thus, here are a few of my lessons learned so far.

- Blondie
No matter how dark my hair is, I will always be a blonde, unless of course I travel to Sweden. Lesson learned: stick with what is all good and nat-u-ral in the world.

 
- Pants on the Ground
So I am sharing a bathroom (yes, college all over again), I enter wearing my jammies and leave wearing my jammies, but need to shower in between. No issue there you would think, but there is no separation between the shower and the rest of the bathroom (insert hot mess here). Ok, so it all works out, except when Anna's jammies are pants and she isn't thinking one woozy morning. Well she goes to put the jammie pants on and without wanting to get them wet, swooooosh she goes.... Anna on the ground (keep in mind that there is no sound proof barrier here and there was screaming involved). Lesson learned: wear shorts for shower time.

- Heeve, hoo
So I have mentioned we have armored cars, right? Ok, well that means these beastly SUV doors are heavy, I mean like 2-handed push heavy. Ok, well every day I need to take my work stuff to work (laptop, paperwork, etc) and my grab bag (essentials in case something should go wrong), plus it is winter here so I have a winter coat on and my scarf. Being winter here there is a bit of snow on the ground, but the sun also comes out, so there is an ugly mix of mud, slush and snow - creating for awful conditions. Anywhoo, I go to get into the car last night, in typical bag-lady fashion with my feminist "I don't need your help to close the door" approach. Well, Karma got me good, down goes one of my bags, my foot slips into a nnaaasty puddle and my pants and full of mud. The security guard is trying really hard not to laugh at me and I am try for the life of me to hold on to my other bag and I snort about 3 times (probably the first time the Afghan has heard anyone snort). Lesson learned: Sometimes we need a little help from each other (or we will end up in a puddle of mud).

 
What goes around comes around
Never in a million years did I think I would be here, but here I am and loving it. One thing I always try to do is to always build positive relationships with people. If things didn't work out, let it be, no need to spread bad karma. If they did - spread the word! So it goes here, I have met a lot of people here, many who I have never worked with, but I have heard such good things about. Also, as I meet them, they say the same about me - and what a great feeling that is. Lesson learned: don't burn bridges and keep the spreading positive vibes (as they may come back).

Alright, working half day today (today is our one day off) and then heading to town with a co-worker to some shops, out to brunch and then who knows what. Have a good day and please keep me posted on all good things in your lives.

Wednesday, February 10, 2010

News Flash!

Life is grand: I have hot water and amazing water pressure. What more could a girl ask for? It is the little things in life!

Ok, that is all for now. :)

In Kabul with a smile

Thousands of news stories I have heard over and over again and they had built up so many expectations in my head, honestly, I must tell, it isn't at all what I had expected (from what the media had laid out). We flew in over the most beautiful snow covered mountains, rolling hill after hill, just miles of natural ice. The plane I was in was a pleasant mix of Afghans, international workers and military personnel, though I must admit, I was probably one of five women. The airport was safe and secure, much more functional than most developing countries I have been to, and people were rather friendly (maybe even too friendly). "Ma'am, you have beautiful eyes", "oh ma'am, I will help you, with anything you need", a bit of a friendly welcome I received, I would say. My head was covered, which was a strange feeling, but one I am sure I will get used to. Strange I say, not because I mind doing it, but because I know I am not doing it right (haha). Off we went from the airport.

From the airport we travel with 2 cars, to be safe (they are armored - meaning if gunfire comes it would take a lot to get through it). Traveling through Kabul, I felt very safe.

It is winter here, about 30 degrees, but little snow. The offices are chilly, but the energy warms the air. I am staying off site at one of our other guest houses, but will be moving to a new one we are building (oh la la), which is expecting to be done in the next month, inshallah.

Thus far I have seen a few friendly faces, which is always great. I ran into an old colleague flying from DC to Dubai and she is out here for the next two months. Another friend ran into my office as I was leaving yesterday and surprised me. So there are a few familiar faces! Apparently there is a BIG social scene here, which I am sure will provide many a great stories for all of you to come.

Alright, not much of a theme here, I apologize, just wanted to get the basics out (plus its 4am) and let you all know I am safe and doing fantastic!

Tuesday, February 9, 2010

Hello Dubai

Arrived safely in Dubai, no time to play (though they are tempting me, as they upgraded me to a Royal Suite), sleepy time for this girl as a 3:30am wake up call will come early. Then it is off to Kabul!

Monday, February 8, 2010

Snowy Happenings

So I leave Wisconsin and what do I come to? Over 3 feet of snow in DC! My plane slid in on the only open runway in the area, my cabbie held on to the wheel as if his life depended on it (nearly a $100 cab ride) and my hotel is full of residents without power. The silver lining... the city looks amazing!

The update goes as such... landed at 9pm, shared a cab into Bethesda (waited over an hour for it, due to limited service), settled into my hotel, walked about 10 blocks to a 24 hour Diner, enjoyed the wonderful snow, walked back and rested. It is now Monday, the office is closed (due to conditions) so I am working from my hotel, I will be heading over to a co-workers house this afternoon and then heading to the airport around 5pm and on my way to Dubai, inshallah. After a night in Dubai, I fly to Kabul. Looking forward to getting my boots on the ground.

So, I left Green Bay, almost barren of snow, am in DC, chaotically lost in over 2 feet of snow (expecting more) and am heading to Kabul, where I hear they have a 'snow shortage'... I think Al Gore is on to something, you guys! :)